HI
You can fit 4 bonkas in the box or if you want 6 or 8 bonkas 2 boxes can be fitted
(see pic)
Did you add that sheath around the controller wire? My batch 3 unit came with a very thin black wire that I’m a little concerned can slip past the netting and into the props. I would like something a little thicker and less flexible… what did you use?
It came as standard in the batch 2
Braiding is available from most electrical suppiers tho
Batch 2 cable is several small wires with a nylon braid. Batch 3 is even smaller wire but it’s wrapped in a steel braid and insulation over that. I only know because I bought a batch 3 voltage divider with that wire and connector.
I didn’t think the batch 2 cable was stiff enough so I put a nylon rod inside the nylon braid for about the first foot coming out of the motor to insure the cable doesn’t slip between the net and the chassis.
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What kind of nylon rod? Where can I get the braid?
It was just about 1/8” diameter rod that I had laying around. There are a variety of ways that you could stiffen up the cable. You could probably find the braid online.
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Hi Davek
No Cad files I’m afraid they were cut out and bent by hand
Dave
On the bottom box, did you change the screws that go into the frame (hinges) for longer ones, or you just used the stock ones?
thanks
The stock ones are plenty long enough
Where are design files for batch 4? Github does not have anything new in it for a while. Was going to manufacture my own replacement motor arms, but I do not see any files to base them off of.
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Send me an email i send them to you.
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I’m can put em up in the GitHub if someone can send them over to me
@zjwhitehead, I just wanted to double check my hypothesis and ask: Why isn’t the batch 3 controller set up to accept power from the USB port?
It was a time constraint mostly (wasnt in the original design then would have to do another round of PCBs with testing) which is why we were able to add it in batch 4
Finally got repairs done, and a second test flight in. This time I did not fall from the sky.
I have a few bad habits still carried over from decades of paragliding and I am too timid on the throttle. This will get better. Flight was intentionally short.
I did have two issues: upon attempting a few bunny hop launch/landings, the hand controller stopped working (blank display, motors beeping in disarmed state, no response to any buttons). And when I took the frame off I noticed one of the props had gotten loose, which is frightening. Wish we could wire on those nuts.
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Pics of the repairs to the motor arms. I used 0.062" delrin laser cut in a glowforge, two pieces on each side.
Learning that aviation and frugality dont mix. Old me would have tried to glue this split in the prop. New me invests in buying a new prop.
Seeking advice. I added some loom over the throttle cable, but still need a better way of securing the cable to the throttle hand unit. After the first flight, tried to do a subsequent flight but found that the throttle was not responding/had no 5V power/blank display. Upon disassembly it is apparent that a yank on the cable bent and damaged the PCB mount connector, and then fully disconnected.
Is there a better way to secure the cable where it enters the throttle body? Or inline a cable disconnect?
