If you measure off one branch to one motor it won’t go over. That’s what I did with my meter. I mounted my display on the gooseneck bar.
I was kidding – I like the digital look so I am following in you footsteps.
This was a long print - almost 8 hrs!
I found this Meter on Amazon.ca - they all look like the same housing size so I am hoping it still fits my newly printed holder by Paul(Glider Pilot) - thx again Paul.
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I like how that one shows amps and volts at the same time. Mine will swap back and fourth every second. I have it set to only show amps.
Love free delivery same day prime items - dont know how they do it.
This is a slightly different configuration than Paul’s meter - fit was almost there but I had to dremel it out a bit. The display button and cables are in different location. Fortunately the display button is on the front top left so it did not needed to be used from the rear. For the cables I also dremeled out the spot where the button came in just to give them a little extra bending space.
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I ordered that same amp meter. Good to know can make this 3D print work ill have to get it printed up.
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If you could show me where it needs to be opened up I could open up the drawing and remove the button hole.
Have you made the new throttle?
Dave
That would be great - basically remove the button hole and that whole raised area the hole comes through making it flush along the back.
As I mentioned it was a tight fit all around - so maybe make the entry cavity bigger by 0.5mm all around more space.
The cable run fits ok but if someone wants to put a sleeve they will need to dremel it out some more as well.
Cheers
I edited all that you said including the cable run. I hope the retention isn’t too sloppy now. Let me know how it all fits now:
thx - Printing now - will let you know in about 8 hrs.
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You were right - the thing does not want to come out of the previous unit.
Print looks good but I am back to work now so it will have to wait till tonight
Cheers
You can soften the PLA with a hair dryer or a heat gun and stretch it open. You could even put it in an oven at 60-70c. Or you could cut the old one away or drill holes where the retention tabs are so that you can press the tabs.
Yep, PLA becomes very pliable once warmed up a bit. I worry how it will hold up on a hot sunny day with those black parts sucking up heat and passing it to the attacked PLA parts?
New print is awesome - fit with no slack on sides, even if it had had a bit of slop, once those upper and lower grips catch it would not matter - but this was just enough to slide in with a hint of friction and then lock in with the grips
Thx again!
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You’re welcome! Glad that worked out for you!
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I’ve never had issues with PLA getting too soft from the heat. It has to be hot enough to be uncomfortable to the touch. While flying the black metal will stay cool from the wind. I don’t ever leave my equipment sitting out in the sun. I transport it in the trunk which is much cooler than direct sun through the car windows.
I did not like the Screwing in of the ESC’s – the heat sink provides a good grip as well their is a hole there on the arm too big for a spacer support as well to stop it from moving when one of the tiewraps is put through it.
I mounted mine with two bolts, it’s not the best designed esc for mounting as the wires are right behind the mounting holes making it very difficult to get the bolts and a wrench on the heads but managed to do it.
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That will suffice very well with 2.
I just thought even getting one in was a pain so tie wraps it is – probably a good velcro or VHB tape would the trick.
Cheers
I originally used two bolts but one tab eventually broke off of 3 out of 4 ESCs. The break actually left a small hole in the case where the tabs were. Now I have them attached with 2 inch wide adhesive Velcro (that probably adds vibration dampening too 
).
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