Yes, 4$ more on .ca site
It looks like you printed all 4 pieces as a group? Is it possible for you to post a STL file that includes all the parts in one file ready to print? I have put the four pieces into one file but I am having trouble getting them all to sit flat on the build plate.
Thanks for the great solution to the thin tips.
I updated the files above so they are oriented to the top plane. That should help.
That solved the problem. Thank you!
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I cut 4 mm off each end of each hoop segment to compensate for the additional 4 mm on each side of the new connector design. It doesnât seem like much but it adds a total of 32 mm to the circumference of the hoop making it a pretty tight fit.
I marked them with masking tape. Cut close to the tape with a hacksaw. Then filed up to the masking tape.
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Can you translate that to 3D stupid for me :>)
They are now oriented the way they need to be for printing. Printers have 3 axisâs just like 3D drafting software does. The X and Y axis are on the top view plane. The print bed is also the top view plane.
So I could put the file onto a USB stick and let the printer go for it?
No, they need to be sliced with slicer software. The printer should have come with slicer software. Thatâs part of printing that you will have to learn about to print anything. Itâs the layer by layer path for the print head.
Ok - thx
Cheers, Patrick
Can you share which standoffs you used and which bolts? May be amazon link to purchase them?
Thanks
The bolts for the tabs would be the same as for the standoffs except maybe a little shorter. M3 x 8 with nuts.
Looks like your printer works well! Think I need to order one of those.
On my 3rd set of hoop connectors and they are all looking good. I also did some other printer mod prints before and they look great as well.
I found a site that sells a compatible auto leveling mod for this printer that I might do later. For now it is working fine.
Cheers
AwesomeâŚthanks!! 
Important! Sorry guys but there is design flaw with my design created by the intended print orientation. I was hoping if I printed them solid that the layer adhesion would be strong enough but while removing the hoop I broke a tip (I leveraged on the tip too much with the hoop). It split through the layer lines like wood splits with the grain.
As a solution to prevent the others from breaking I installed a 1-5/8 inch long grabber screw.
I just pre-drilled and countersunk the holes rather than re-printing them but if you havenât printed yours yet here are the files with the new holes:
Reinforcing Connector w Grabber Screw - Left Tip.stl (1.8 MB)
Reinforcing Connector w Grabber Screw - Left Center.stl (1003.2 KB)
Reinforcing Connector w Grabber Screw - Right Center.stl (1003.3 KB)
Reinforcing Connector w Grabber Screw - Right Tip.stl (1.8 MB)
This was the cheapest fix since grabber screws are pretty cheap.
Another option is to use longer bolts into the standoffs (M3 x 30mm instead of 12mm) and make the counter bore more shallow. This requires re-printing the tips (if you have printed them already) and purchasing 16 screws (80 cents each at my local hardware store adds up fast when you buy 16 of them).
Here are the files for that option:
Reinforcing Connector w 30mm Bolts - Left Tip.stl (1.7 MB)
Reinforcing Connector w 30mm Bolts - Left Center.stl (975.0 KB)
Reinforcing Connector w 30mm Bolts - Right Center.stl (975.1 KB)
Reinforcing Connector w 30mm Bolts - Right Tip.stl (1.7 MB)
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Iâm new to the 3D printer thing (just ordered my Prusa), but wouldnât PETG be a better material for these? I understand you are prototyping solutions and PLA is easier to work with. I thought PLA would have issues with being exposed to the elements and PETG would be stronger.
What material are the OpenPPG printed parts made from?
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