Not really. GP’s design is sound. A smooth ring is desirable so that lines can slide along them unperturbed.
This design has the problem in that the unification provided by the single connector is now broken, and the two connectors can now pivot and flex a great deal… which will lead to prop strikes into the netting. Really has to be a solid connector (even if bolted together from pieces)
no need to be rude about it just sharing.
my design was tossed together in 5 minutes and the curve was even inaccurate. i was just trying to help.
the curved bolt thing was a joke sorry it didn’t come out as such…
@Ryder CF Doesn’t flex much i only added one “Stand off” spacer to get the idea across. the space looks bigger on screen and tall prints like that can take 12+ hrs i was looking to save time.
I like your design giving the break/space - gives a more high tech look in my opinion.
But I think GP’s would better strength wise I am guessing as they join together.
If the extra strength is not required then I would go for nice visual open space. I would go even further and just have the inside pieces be flat washers to really open it up.
Cheers
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Here is a fix for broken tips and a reinforcement to prevent broken tips by encasing them:
Print at 0.2mm layer height with this print orientation:
This shows how it assembles with two standoffs:
Outer perimeter is nice and smooth:
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AWESOME! Thanks for contribution 
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Very nice my friend!!!
Thank you.
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I was just looking at the original post… that’s a pretty severe break. @dario7 For the break on the front edge we need to tie it to the holes where the standoff was. Here is my updated design with tabs for attaching it with screws through that hole:
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Alright, this is awesome. However I don’t have a 3D printer, so GP any chance I can purchase from you? or does anybody have recommendations for a business that does small orders here in the United States?
There are several places online where you can upload files and they mail you the parts.
I’d be willing to sell them at least within the United States.
Perfect, I’m definitely interested. Feel free to email me a price for the last set of files you posted. My email is normandycoast@hotmail.com and I could pay with PayPal or Venmo.
Thanks much-John
This will give me a chance to put the new printer our work purchased – they did a test print of a DarthVader head and I think it has sat there idle ever since!, manager has approved me doing a few or 20 parts, :>) While no one is looking!
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Hi there, I was curious what size standoffs are designed to fit inside your new pieces. Curious about OD and length dimensions. Thanks much
I designed it to use the standoffs from the arms (M3 x 45mm). I didn’t have any extra so I just moved the two outer most ones from the arms to the inside of the connector.
I updated my post above with the most recent files. The previous ones worked but were just a little tight.
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What is the recommended material for these?
And what is the aprx print time?
Cheers
I use PLA Plus and haven’t ever had any problems with stuff like this. Takes 15hrs on my Prusa for a full set (all four arms) to print solid. It’s designed for a 0.2mm layer height.
That’s pretty typical. I use eSun which is also on Amazon
eSUN 1.75mm PLA PRO (PLA+) 3D Printer Filament 1KG Spool (2.2lbs), Fire Engine Red, (Pantone 199C) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07846LFNB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6vZtCbMDJHWJA