I’m loving these short clips while assembling mine! I see you got 4 Bonka’s on there now.
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Great videos, very inspiring for electric flight!
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In what configuration are you hooking your bonka batteries in? Are all four in parallel or are you running two pairs? Can you show a more detailed picture of the configuration? Thanks
You have to run them in pairs to get the correct voltage. Basically just plug a red wire of one battery to the black wire of another battery and it makes it like one battery with double the volts.
I too was planning to use my Tequila 4. You most likely bought it from Jonathan at Utah Paragliding at Point of Mountain. Love them all! Was wondering what risers you were using?
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@flyingfinn Yes, Jonathan is awesome! I buy all my equipment from him and trust his advice and opinions. Skywalk makes motor risers for the Mescal 4 which is motor certified. However, they don’t make them for the Tequila 4 because it’s not motor certified. My son and I have been motoring with both of those wings using just the standard risers.
The Tequila is certainly more responsive making it easier, for example, to do a long foot drag like in the video above.
Do you live in Utah too?
I’ve had the same problem with the hoop connectors. Each time I disassemble the hoop they get a bit looser. When the netting is drawn tight, the hoop distorts and looks warped from the side. I need to get some connectors like yours that insert deeper into the hoop. I would recommend the kits have aluminum connectors if possible. I wonder if I could build up the connectors I have to make them fit tighter?
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Hi Paul,
I live in Durango, CO but PoM S is our second home. Feels like Jonathan and Hal are almost like family now. Just came back from there last Wednesday. Getting too hot to camp there with no AC.
Also have a Chili 3 and thought to convert the Tequila 4 to paramotor use. May hold off on that now and just use my Velocity Elektra 33. I know it is big but maybe still good at my altitude 7k and higher.
Would like to see your paramotor in September if that works for you. Looks like you have lots of great ideas going on.
Thanks!
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Sure, get ahold of me the next time you’re in Utah.
Great! Will do that late September. Looking forward to meeting you and seeing what you have come up with. In the meanwhile, have great flights near your home.
Hi Gliderpilot, where did you get those Velcro straps you used for attaching the batteries? I can’t seem to find any in that width. Thanks!
I borrowed a harness to use while I was waiting for my Dudek Powerseat to arrive. It finally arrived an now that I have it hooked up I thought I would share how I did it. I sanded the slots really good to prevent the straps from wear but I still don’t want the straps sliding around so I routed the straps in such a way to create a hinge rather than sliding around through the slots. This was done by going through a single slot in the front plate and both slots in the back plate. Not only does this “hinge” method protect the straps but it helps the unit to fold up nicer.
I added an extra strap to one of the bottom straps so that I can connect the two together. Now I only have to do up one buckle instead of two for easier setup.
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How did you sand the slots? What sandpaper did you use?
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How did you add these files to this thread? Every time I’ve tried it would only allow an image file.
-Rob
This weekend I forgot to buckle up the lower harness attachment to the frame (I’m usually really thorough at checking things over). The way I have it rigged makes it only one buckle instead of two but it leaves one strap long enough to reach the prop (if it’s not done up).
So during flight one of my props kept hitting the loose strap but I didn’t even hear it or feel it. I didn’t notice it till after I landed and saw a chunk missing from the tip of the prop.
I even flew it again with the same prop to see if I could feel a difference in the vibration but I couldn’t.
Anyway, now I’m debating if I want to connect the strap different (such that if I fail to do it up it won’t reach the prop) or just not have a connection there at all. The thrust line is below the motor pivot point so the thrust will naturally hold it against your lower back. Other than severe turbulent conditions I don’t see a need to have a connection there. What are everyone’s thoughts on that? @Pdwhite, do you typically do yours up?
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I have forgot to strap mine before and had the same thing happen other the nicking up the prop. It only takes me about 15 second so i always strap it or you can feel it sliding around if your doing any mild acro. Also on take off it will slide around bit when your running.
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I also forgot once. As I was walking to my takeoff, I felt the extra movement in the harness and decided to do a double check - glad I did. I’ve added it to my pre-flight checklist.
I do find it a bit fiddly, so I would like to do something similar to yours with a quick connect of some kind.
I want to do two things:
- A quick connect
- Make them either too short to reach the prop or self retract
I also need to be extra careful not to go over my reserve bridle with it! I did that once too!
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Here is an interesting calculator that uses cell resistance to estimate the maximum recommended average current draw to prevent pack damage:
My charger displays the resistance of my Bonka batteries between 1.5 and 2 ohms. According to this calculator you shouldn’t draw more that 257 amps from a pair of Bonka batteries or they will get too hot and damage the cells. Over 60 degrees C is too hot.
After flying 10 minutes on a pair of Bonka’s I measured the heat with an IR gun and they were 65 degrees C. However, after flying 25 minutes with 4 Bonka batteries they don’t get hotter that 55 degees C. Therefore, I will continue to use 4 Bonka’s to protect my investment from premature damage.
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