I talked GliderPilot into coming up to my house to show me his OpenPPG electric paramotor.
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I really like the way you can mount your four bonka’s … it’s almost as quick and simple as my mount 
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Thanks for letting me fly from your beautiful backyard and for letting me demo your wing! I love the video!
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what?`that was his backyard?
let’s all meet there and fly 
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Well, technically it’s a golf course. Can’t imagine why nobody was golfing though! It was a beautiful evening!
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One of my first and favorite improvements I made to my OpenPPG last summer was quick latches for the arms. They automatically click lock when the arms are folded out and quick release with one finger to fold the arms back in. At the top of this thread you can see the original ones I made out of Lexan. I decided to test a 3D printed version which would make it available to more people. They simply pop rivet into holes that are already in the frame. I printed them with PETG and they work great!
Here is the file:
Arm Quick Latch.stl (170.8 KB)
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a very good solution according to the KISS principle (Keep It Simple and Stupid)
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Did you do solid in the prints?
I will need to order some PETG in orange to keep my colour scheme going or do you think the PLA will work?
Cheers
Are the snap latches prone to breaking while the craft is in the folded position? They seem a bit exposed.
Yes, I printed them solid. Yes, PLA should work fine.
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They aren’t really all that exposed while folded. But if you ever break one just print a replacement.
Also, keep in mind that during flight there isn’t any stress on these because the thrust holds the arms open. The hoop will also hold the arms open. They are more a setup aid than anything. So if you broke one on the way to go fly I wouldn’t let that stop you from flying.
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I redesigned my hinge stops to be more narrow and contour the hinge better:
Here are the files:
Hinge Stops - Top.stl (110.6 KB)
Hinge Stops - Bottom.stl (110.6 KB)
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Here is an update to the pre-charge knob. I made it stronger and adjusted the orientation to be straight.
I recommend using a 10 ohm resistor or less with it.
Here are the files:
Pre-Charge Knob - Knob.stl (1.9 MB)
Pre-Charge Knob - Shell.stl (391.5 KB)
Pre-Charge Knob - Hub.stl (295.5 KB)
Also a link to the resistor I am using now:
http://d.digikey.com/R00N0o9XR71000k0SfKaHpH
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I added battery tracks to the legs for the option of flying with 6 batteries.
That’s a lot of battery!
Here are the files:
T-Bar and Miter Track Horizontal - Top Left.stl (128.3 KB)
T-Bar and Miter Track Horizontal - Top Right.stl (632.9 KB)
T-Bar and Miter Track Horizontal - Bottom Left.stl (128.3 KB)
T-Bar and Miter Track Horizontal - Bottom Right.stl (604.6 KB)
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The lower batteries plug into this Xt 150 connector holder.
Here are the files:
Xt 150 Mount (Lower) - Holder.stl (277.5 KB)
Xt 150 Mount (Lower) - Hold Down.stl (57.5 KB)
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How did you wire up the 2 extra batteries internally?
Here’s a copy of his pic that he sent me. I’m curious of those rubber gasket looking prop protectors in the center holes. What are those?
https://discourse-openppg-prod.s3.dualstack.us-east-1.amazonaws.com/uploads/db1930/original/2X/8/8bf8d79aa2c670daeaf73b88ce2baa520045f0ba.jpeg
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Notice in the picture that all of my inputs are connected. So as soon as I plug in the batteries they are connected in parallel to each other even with the switches off. Turning on one switch connects all batteries to all ESCs. Turning on the second switch will make that switch carry half of the load. If a switch fails during flight you still have power to all motors from all batteries. I can fly with or without the other two batteries without effecting any of the above.
I found these rubber grommets on Amazon:
I opened up the holes in the carbon with a Dremel tool so the circumference of my oval shaped hole matched the circumference of the grommet.
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I have pre-ordered the V4 kit, Very excited to build it and include some of your “Upgrades”. I live in Utah county, any chance I could come up and see your unit?