New Battery connectors

How do i get some of the new red electrical connectors (anderson plug)

Paul has them available. I don’t know how much they cost…you’ll need to contact him.

I didn’t want to solder the wires into the “large” Anderson “type” contact ends…I wanted to use my hydraulic crimper, so, I ordered these for 6AWG wire. The battery wire is #8, so the #6 end should be fine in the crimper.

I hope this helps. Bill

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KO is releasing a new set of waterproof adapters that are good to 300a - 500 burst (2x capacity of the QS10).

The Andersons have been around a long time and have a good track record. Phil and I both suggested giving them a try…easier to connect and disconnect. Our battery has #8 wire…the Anderson Paul is using I believe is 120 amps continuous and maybe 300amps surge. Personally, I like them because I can crimp the ends on with my hydraulic hand press and also the aforementioned reasons.

I’m going to try the Anderson’s…you try the ones above and we’ll compare notes.:+1: Thanks for posting.


How did the hand crimping go with the new connector? I’m thinking about switching to this connection if I keep having problems with the stock connectors.

Still waiting on other parts. I messaged you with details. I will update this thread when the parts come in.

Same. I might switch to crimp on as well.

What kind of problems is everyone having with the QS connectors?

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Can we get an update on the crimp on connectors with a parts list. Also what did you do for the charger end?

Hi, Michael! I have been " under the weather" but am finally recovering nicely. I have it on my list to disassemble both of my batteries this week to begin the upgrade process. I ordered enough ends to cover the batteries, ESC and the charger. I will post my progress.
Sorry for the delay. Bill

What problems are there with the QS8?

They can be difficult to pull apart. Paul designed some covers for them that are easier to grasp, but I elected to go the Anderson route. The Anderson’s are larger and have been around for years…both halves are exactly the same, and they are easier to take apart. The new Bluetooth modules have a small rocker “soft switch” that needs to be mounted into the battery cover (requires a bit of Dremel work) that I believe takes care of any arcing. I hope this helps. Bill

Thanks, I think of going with the Amas As150 mostly because they are separated minus from plus which I need because I will have the pack devided in three 8s packs so I can charge with Isdt hobby charger.

Do you have a link to the soft switch

I ordered it all from Paul. My unit and batteries are batch 1. What I ordered is what he uses on the current stock battery. I wanted the upgraded features. Here is a low res picture that a friend at home texted me:

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Nice, I’ll be going with the Anderson connectors this week but not because I want to. :frowning:

No bueno :rofl:

PS - $200 for connectors and hydraulic crimping tool.

What happened? Also you have to have the soft switch.

This is the second time they’ve been stuck together after flying. The first time was in December without the 3D print material and now again with the prints. I suspect it’s the result of keeping the battery in the house and then going to the flying field in 35F plastic shrinking to make the housing tighter.

Hi, Mike! I finally have some time and plan on disassembling my 30 minute battery tomorrow. It is not something to be rushed, and great care should be used at all times…absolutely no distractions!

I’m going to first check voltages on the balance leads just to be sure the battery is healthy…then go from there.

I will post photographs of my progress here at the end of my SP140 photo album:

Wish me luck!

BTW:. Michael is correct…if you are going to use the Andersons, you need to use the Soft Switch with the Bluetooth BMS; otherwise, you are going to produce a lightning bolt at 100VDC. Talk to Paul about it. :+1:


I don’t think it’s from cold weather shrinking them. I had the same issue. The red plastic resistor inside the connector was heating up on mine and melting a little so basically glueing the two ends together. The 3D printed add ons were a good thought but didn’t fix the problem. I think the crimp on connectors are definitely the way to go.