Hey all - I ordered an SP140 earlier this month when everything appeared to be in stock, and due to some inventory glitches with the site, the two 4kwh batteries on my order were out of stock. Paul just reached out and said the ETA was January, or I could save $50/battery by going with the old non-Bluetooth BMS ones.
I’m still flying my ICE motor 2-5 times per week, so I’m not missing out on flight time. Is it worth waiting until January for the newer batteries, or is this something I can retrofit? I don’t mind waiting but having all the cash tied up for three months is less than ideal.
I would wait if you can fly in the meantime but if you couldn’t I would say switch to the old ones. I like the idea of the Bluetooth in the battery but I haven’t used it much. But if there is an issue with the battery then I’m sure I’ll be glad I have it. I don’t think it’s a good idea to add the BT yourself later to the old battery either.
Can someone tell me what kind of battery does the SP140 have LiPo or Lithiu Ion and what nominal voltage (nr of cells)? Also did someone manage to do thermaling with the 140 to have longer flights and can the normal free flight wing be used if you are in the wheight range with all the gear? Thank you.
Yes, you can fly it with a PG wing and the battery is a lithium ion. The full size battery is 24C11P, 100v system. I believe someone posted about an hour and 45 minute flight using ridge soaring and thermals. I’m currently flying on a PG wing, I’ve been told if you are within the weight range for PG on your wing then you will be fine just adding the motor.
I just purchased a used PPG wing so I don’t put so many hours on my PG wing plus the added weight flying with the motor.
Thank you! Yes, reading through here I saw that someone has flown 1h45min and that answered my question if you can thermal with ppg and the extra drag wont’t be too much, it seems not. This is fantastic! I have black plowed fields that generate thermals just need to take off near them. And I don’t understand why on neither one of videos or reviews I didn’t heard people doing this! I know it’s fun flying low, something we can’t do without an engine because we land sortly but why not take off, gain some altitude, spiral in a thermal and gain A Lot more altitude…fly some distance…another thermal and if not…you have the engine… Maybe due to the fact that some like to fly in the morning or evening, when there’s no turbulence but also no thermals so this might be one answer and it’s a smother ride.
I’m glad it’s LiIon and not lipo as it has at least double cycle life. Not so glad that it’s not being shipped to europe if I understand well. So the SP140 with standard battery it’s only used in USA? So enywhere else we should look for lipos for it? That sucks.
I have the Iris swingarms with the soft links in the most rearward position. When I’m flying, I have to pull a lot of left brake and even scoot my whole body to the left side of the seat (weight shift left) to counteract the torque forces turning to the right, even at cruise power in straight and level flight. I understand it’s normal to need some left brake input to counteract this force, but it seems in my case to be excessive. Is this something that might be improved by moving the link on the left swingarm forward a notch?
Yes, although I believe you want the right side to be further forward, not the left. The attached photo is an excerpt from a Macfly manual talking about this torque compensation. My Miniplane had the same recommendation, but that was only 0.5 cm difference (because it was an 80cc engine) and in the opposite direction (because the engine spun the other way).
I point this out only to confirm that this is an industry-accepted option, not just some “what if I…” kind of thought experiment. On my Iris-arm SP140, my left attachment is all the way back; right is one notch forward. There’s still torque at high power, but it made a huge difference for me. As always, I would highly recommend doing a power on hang test before flying.
Thank you so much! ■■■■, I almost did it backwards and made it worse. I’m glad I asked. Compensating for torque and twist is a bit difficult to wrap my head around, but I think I’ve got the concept now. I’ll move the right riser forward a notch and see if I notice a difference. Thank you again!
