What’s your weight?
Just weighed myself, 155lb, same as I’ve weighed since Highschool, lol.
So here is the first though I had, and it hasnt been brought up yet it seems like.
Relocate the battery here. Like this.
First I would need to figure out how to secure the battery safelty in that location, and maybe even raise it up on a stand off so it doesn’t take an impact from beneath in the event of a butt landing. Then I would need a second set of the battery connectors, and make a 1ft long jumper wire. Or I could extend the existing battery cable with another foot of wire. I did a quick calculation and that would loose me 0.62V at 200A load. So not a big deal when working in the 80-100V range.
Any issue with larger voltage spikes from this extra length?
Here is what I came up with.
As a trial I relocated the battery from the vertical position against your back, to down here in the empty bottom part of the frame. It’s temporarily attached with some ratchet straps.
I re-did the hang check and adjusted the collars evenly to get a nice 5-15 degree lean back angle.
Having moved the entirety of battery forward of its original center of mass, this allowed me to get the adjustable collars back in the range of the bent portion of the gooseneck bars, though just barely. See here. The red mark is where the hang point is with the battery in the original location.
What are your thoughts? Any problems trying to fly it this way with the battery mounted in this location assuming I can secure it robustly?
I did notice the whole unit felt heavier on my shoulders and standing upright was harder to stay balanced. I didn’t try running or jogging with it.
I think if I do this, and I cut down the motor stand offs by 15mm then I can buy another 1/4" forwards on the hang point and I’ll be happy with that.
Are you using a 1/ hour battery?
Cage tilted too far back.
This is closer to what you should have:
I weigh just under 150lbs.
1/2 hour battery and three blades prop.
Connections as far back as they can go on the side canes.
Tip: you can find medium density foam and squeeze it inside the pocket where the harness’s foam is found. Do not put foam at the top - only the lower third section. Find foam similar to what is used in the harness by the manufacturer (1" or layered 1/2" thick white packing material will do). It will be really tough to push it down but possible - do not bust the zipper though😆Layer as needed to find the correct cage angle and comfort level during each hang test. Place the foam on the rear facing side of the harness so to keep the original foam close to your back. While seated, your lower back will then push the thicker padded area against the low section of the frame and hence forcing the top of the cage forward. Do not tighten the harness’s two low side straps too tight if at all. Too tight and they will pull the base of the hoop in the wrong direction.
Video: look at 6:40 under power - my cage is pretty much straight When I need a change of scenery - YouTube
God luck!
Phil
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Thanks. I have the 1 Hr battery, as the 1/2hr battery isn’t going to be in stock until March.
Im a little confused about the foam trick you are describing. Sounds like you stuffed foam to the bottom of the harness and created some space from the hardness to the cage? How does this help change the hang point? I thought the hang point it all about balance and where your weight is VS the weight of the heavy components of the paramotor. Hence why I tried to relocate the battery.
That downward angle of your thrust in flight will affect your wing in flight.
The amount of change will be determined by the weight of the pilot and the amount of thrust you have on the motor.
With No thrust or push, and the flight should be more or less normal. But as you increase thrust with the force blowing downwards, the weight (load) from the pilot will shift to a lighter loading and the wing will be affected.
As the wing likes a certain amount of loading, and improper thrust release can cause the wing to become unstable.
One vid I watched suggested that the propeller should be vertical when gliding.
Obviously other things can affect this too.
On the other side, if the thrust was going UPwards, this is increasing weight on the wing, making the load heavier and this can have adverse conditions too.
There are other factors too, but this is an easy one to adjust.
Tatawaki: What horizontal distance is between the prop tips and the frame loop and what was left after shortening the motor standoffs? Could the engine be mounted even closer to pilot if the esc is mounted sideways?
I will have to do that since I’ll be using a thicker esc, and my custom motor plate will be directly on the long standoffs, just don’t know how long to make them. (The sum of standard standoffs plus esc plates plus short standoffs is about 10+0,5+4 cm) that means I’ll have to make them 10-14cm long depending on what distance is left at the prop tip after shortening that distance.
From what I remember, there was still plenty of room with the shorter standoffs. I would say you still had over 3" of clearance.