I had to purchase and install a new HUB after the original went out. After the install, the situation was not resolved. I noticed that neither of the HUB’s LEDs were lighting (the green flashing nor the red constant). Has anyone had to fix this before? Or, do you think I received a bad replacement HUB?
I am using two 7 cell Bonkas. The voltage coming out of the DC/DC converter to the HUB is 5 volts.
Do you have pics of your setup?
Is the controller coming on?
The controller is coming on. It even shows how long it has been armed. It vibrates upon the double click and, it disarms as well. But, the ESCs “beep” the same weather the controller is armed or disarmed.
I will try to upload pics. But, the last time I tried to upload a video, it was too big to post.
If you’d like, you can upload an unlisted YouTube video and paste the link here.
There could be a couple things going on that I can think of. I’m not as familiar with the hub though because I’ve only dealt with batch 2 before the hub was introduced. But I have the new hub schematic in front of me right now. It could be one of the following:
a) there is a disconnect on any of the lines between the throttle and the hub. For example, it could be a disconnect on one of the communication lines inside your throttle, possibly on the connector inside the throttle.
b) there is a disconnect between the hub’s PWM or GND and the ESCs. This would be less likely because it would mean all four ESC’s have a disconnect. Or it means you plugged all the ESCs into the hub backwards. Don’t go flipping them around just yet though, because that may damage your ESCs.
Are you able to open up your throttle and inspect the connector to make sure none of the pads have lifted?
Thanks for the response. All of the ESCs are plugged in with the White Line on top. The throttle has been replaced so, it’s probably going to be OK. But, I will open it to make sure.
I finally figured out how to post a photo on this site. I was looking for an attachment icon. Stupid me.
I know you said your DC/DC converter was precise, but are you certain it is smooth? If there are any spikes above 5.5V, the hub will shut off with the over voltage protection I designed for it.
The part I can’t make sense of is why would the throttle still be powered when the power light on the hub is not illuminated? That is throwing me through a loop.
Hello glydrfreak,
Thank you for your interest in my dilemma. I don’t know what I’m going to do. The DC/DC converter is very smooth. I set it at 4.97 and, it fluctuates to 4.98 high and 4.96 low. I checked it with a meter and seems right on spot.
When I first received my new HUB, I was very careful to transfer the wires (one at a time) exactly from the original HUB to the new one. When I powered it on, using two, 7 cell Bonkas, the ESCs started beeping and I was very hopeful when I double-clicked the throttle and I felt it vibrate and heard it chime. But then was disappointed when the ESCs kept beeping.
It wasn’t until I was watching Pauls’s video regarding voltage that I noticed that my HUB had no lights at all. But, as you noted, the throttle does power up.
I just ordered another HUB, hopefully that will put me in the air. But, as I was ordering, I thought is there something else it could be. I know it’s getting power because, the throttle lights up.
glydrfreak, mentioned developing an “over voltage protector”. If that was tripped, how would I reset it?
It is worth the money to get another one just to have as back-up. But, if I can fix the old one, that would be good too.
