Btw that spark arrestor switch knob fits amazingly, perfectly, precisely.
Also, got a track on my Bonkas. They should be in Sumas next week for me to pick up. Seems I may be waiting for a $6 switch, the weather, and busy renovating a rental property, or all three. Sigh…
The #2 switch arrived in half the time expected. Mounted it last night. It is manufactured slightly larger than the one shipped with the OpenPPG. Looks like Paul and Zack shave them down to fit.
The larger, M5?, bolts thread themselves into the switch plastic perfectly. I drilled out two of the holes in the mounting plate for them. The heads are just a hair’s breadth wide but should be ok. Maybe I’ll pocket the surface of the plates for clearance.
Thought it was pretty neat. Then I connected all the power wires and bolted the motor arms in place. Had to mess around a while thinking about wire routing, switch orientation, etc.
Almost there.
After a couple months doing a renovation of our house I got a day to get back to the build. Spent an inordinate amount of thought around the battery cable routing then decided to just let it hang out the sides.
This looked great until I mounted the goose neck arms. They swing back and down and definitely can pinch the positive cables against the frame. Very bad idea.
So, I walked the dogs and thought some more. Then I took the back plate off and routed the cables out the cable holes. Duh!
I made extensive use of cable ties and the foam the motors came so elegantly packaged in to hold things in place and keep connections covered. Suddenly it’s all together!
When I had the battery cables soldered and connected I plugged in a pair of batteries and tried that spark arrestor switch. Worked a treat. Gave it a twist and held it. No crackling noises. Everything just powered up. Snapped the switch on. Everything worked!
Strapped!
Finally got the batteries mounted. After much perusing pictures of bonkas strapped to OpenPPG frames and thinking, over thinking, I ran some 3/4" velcro cable strap through the slots.
Again I used that cool foam the motors came packed in to cushion the batteries against the frame. It also allows a degree of squeeze and provides grip between the batteries and frame. They don’t slide around at all.
Lower battery mounted
Something I’ve just wondered is how stable that foam will be after some exposure. It’s probably not designed for this and may break down in UV, or even just the air, after some time.
I thought about cutting slots in the foam to run the straps through. Tested a piece and it broke out pretty easily. I’ll probably just double face tape the foam to the plate.
Also note the new digs. Been busy renovating and moving. Still doing the former but I got couple nice kiting sessions in.
Started with the center swing arm holes. Will try to do a hang test in the garage. The weight feels very comfortable and not too heavy. Compared to the Blackhawk 125 I’ve flown it seems slightly lighter. I stood with it for about 5 minutes while my wife took a couple dozen pics.
Prop clearance.
Upon folding I noted the prop tips dragging through the holes. Thought about opening them up with the back plate in place. I’m glad I didn’t. Makes quite a mess and I didn’t want graphite dust in the electronics.
Just thought I’d cap off my build log with my first flight! This was a first in many ways. It was the first flight for me away from the area I’ve trained at. It was the first flight for me that I was completely on my own with no one coaching or correcting or telling me it was OK to go. It was my first zero wind launch. Beyond myself I’ve been reminded it was the first flight of an electric paramotor one the Sunshine Coast of B.C. Probably the first electric flight of any kind in the area. It was very likely the first flight of an electric paramotor in this province. OK enough firsts, on to the pics.
Setting up. Sorry I blurred out my helpers face there in a ridiculous way but I’ve not informed him that I’ve posted these yet so… Privacy and all.
One of 8 more inflation attempts. I was getting tired, and that wing was getting damp from the dew. I had lots more help than this one person too. I had a whole impromptu ground crew helping me reset each time. Finally…
FLIGHT!
The time spent not getting airborne chilled the batteries somewhat and it was barely climbing. Or maybe 6cell batteries isn’t enough for the Batch 4 motors/props combo. Hope a warmer day will be better. I’m at sea level.
Batch 4 is designed to use 7S so the biggest factor for lack of power would be that. Cold batteries will drop power a little bit but after a few minutes of flying they should warm up… how long did you fly?
6 packs of 6S (instead of 4 packs) will increase power a little because the voltage sag will be less but the extra weight might make that a trade off.
I’ve flown a batch 4 with 6 packs of 6S. Compared to 7S, it’s harder to takeoff and the initial climb out isn’t very good but the rest of the flight always felt very comfortable including dropping down into fields and climbing back out.
About 30 seconds. LOL. Just enough to get turned around and land. So the batteries probably didn’t really warm up. I didn’t want to push things if the batts were not going to be enough. I know from my model airplane years that cold LiPo batteries can turn a performer into a slug.
I’m about 80Kg dressed. I weighed the motor and batteries and the total is just over 25kilos so I’m around 105kg AUW. That’s the top of the range for my Buzz Z3 ML (23.5sqm) and it was damp. Climb was not great but it was steady at full power. The only other motor I’ve flown is a Blackhawk 125 but only with some wind which increases the climb rate over the ground.
I can probably correct this somewhat by going to more prop pitch (cheaper than more battery or batch 3 motors). Are there alternate prop choices available?
I think there is some performance data posted somewhere that had the 150kv motors with 6s and 22x14 props. It looked pretty close to the 180kv motors on 6s with 22x10 props.
Actually, another quick note: I was originally using a big 34x22 prop on my ultralight single prop build. That 3:2 diameter to pitch ratio is (usually) as coarse as you can go without having significant sections of the prop airfoil stalled on the ground. With my 34x22 I found that I was way over that line at 4000 RPM. It may be beneficial to get 22x13 (if you can find them) or 22x12 props instead of 22x14, just to avoid the prop stall. It makes the props very loud, can cause a lot of vibration if the stall is asymmetric, and I can imagine a lot of pitching and yawing being introduced as the four props stall and install unevenly. Whatever performance you lose from slightly less pitch will probably be compensated for by having a rig that is running smooth and (relatively) quiet.
I think DFDL sells 22x12 wood electric props on AliExpress.
I found those DFDL props. $37 a pair. Someone else on here ordered a set of props from DFDL and found them to be identical to the Gemfan props. It’s likely that they are coming from the same factory.