14S28P Battery Pack build

Here’s my 14s28p battery pack build process using Samsung 30Q 3Ah 15A.

The journey begins…

The beast!..

Spot welding… Hope this nickel strip is enough! Using 0.15 x 7mm ladder style that covers length & width ways and a second single strip 0.2 x 7mm on top of the width way.

The main positive terminal connections. Using 14awg cable, one per 2 batteries.

And the negative. Balance cable connected in the foreground.

The “zip” connections. Unfortunately, we have to be able to split the pack in two for charging, so this is it.

Bringing the main terminal connections together. These connect to 8awg cables

The “zip” connected.

Added terminal covers for a bit of protection.

Added the ESC’s. They are raised to add a bit of air circulation underneath.

Connected it all up for the finale…and…


…and… it ain’t wokin!

The motors do a 1 second interval beep, which the troubleshooter says is “No output signal from the throttle channel on the receiver”

What gong wong??

I’m pretty certain my wires are connected correctly. See below what I connected.

What I find strange is that there are 6 wires going into the throttle loom, but only 4 coming out at the throttle end.
In are 3 black, 1 white, 1 yellow & 1 red
Out are 1 black, 2 white & 1 red.

Is that correct? Any ideas what could be wrong? This is a batch 2 unit BTW.

Your wiring looks correct. The ESCs have power because they are beeping. It sounds like the throttle is disarmed. Did you arm it by double clicking the button and does it say armed on the display? You will hear a series of tones from both the controller and the motors after you arm it. The display should light up as soon as the controller has power. Is the controller getting power?

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Yes to all. So do you think the throttle loom is correct…6 in, 4 out? Can’t inspect what’s going on in the loom as it’s all connected to the throttle. Obviously there must be joins in it.

All of the black wires should be connected together so there is only need for 1 black wire to go through the loom to the controller. Red goes to red and white goes to white but yellow goes to the other white (perhaps when these were made they didn’t have any yellow wire). It matters which white wire the yellow goes to and the only way to tell them apart is to follow where they attach to the board in the controller.

Does the display appear to show the correct voltage? If it does then the yellow wire is connected to the correct white wire because the yellow wire is for communicating voltage to the controller.

One thing to check is to take apart the throttle controller to see if there are any wires that came disconnected.

This shows where the two white wires connect to the board in case one of the connections broke:

This is what I must do for my vruzend battery apparently…Use smaller wire at ever 2-3 cell and connect up to two 8awg, reason, the caps could melt if they get to hot, they’ve seen it before on high amperage packs so I will do what you did here! Great looking pack, what’s the weight, no BMS?

Yes, makes sense to evenly distribute the load. Weight started off at 18 naked, finished at 21.5! Bit more than expected. :astonished: No BMS…going the KISS route! :slight_smile: Will see how it goes.

Yes, display seems to display the correct voltage of 4.00v. Connections in the controller appear intact.

I did a connection check…

Red to red and 3 blacks to black, all no resistance. ESC white and black have some resistance to a few of the other connections.

The motors start beeping as soon as power is connected and keep beeping whether throttle is armed or disarmed.

Not sure what else I can check??

The voltage should read between 45 and 60 volts with your battery so 4.00v does not seem correct. Now I really wonder if your white wires are switched. Make sure D10 goes to the ESC white wires and A6 should go to the yellow wire.

Also, there is another issue. The BEC doesn’t support a fully charged 14S battery:

what’s the red plate you used as a sort of case?
doesn’t look to bad.

You said you’re using the KISS principle.

You should know that the BMS protects the battery

  • from being drained, by shutting it off when the voltage goes below set value
  • from overheating, by shutting it off when you drain too much power and the sensors sense a temperature above set value
  • from getting damaged by not balancing the cells when charging or discharging

just my 2 cents. :slight_smile:

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The plate is a sheet of perspex. 1 sheet on the front, 2 sheets on the back. Had to use 2 and cut out slots on one to allow the cables to be flush where it will meet the frame. With a bit of thought, I may get away just using one sheet and save a little weight…will see about that with the next pack.

Thanks for the heads up re the BMS, yes I’m aware of those points. Just want to see how it goes without one first. Will obviously be cautious at first. :+1:

Oh dear, that’s not cool! :thinking: Mine came all taped up and I mounted it on the unit as is, so couldn’t see this. Will have to pull it apart & check it. @Pdwhite, you mentioned the unit supports 14s. How will this affect things?

Pack voltage is currently 47.6v. Watching the display, the voltage jumps around a bit. Keeps jumping around between 3.98v 72% and 3.92v (66%), but in the higher range most of the time. Is this normal?

There is zero resistance between the D10 white and the ESC white, and zero resistance between the A6 white and BEC yellow, so those seem like they are connected correctly. Vice Versa there is zero connectivity.

The only thing in batch 2 that doesn’t support 14S is the BEC. You could get a new BEC form somewhere or see if Paul and Zach have any more batch 3 PCBs which have the BEC built into it.

Yeah batch 3+ electronics support up to 60V. The ESCs are the same as batch 2 but you’ll need to upgrade your frame and throttle boards to have them work with 14S.
DM me if you are interested in buying them.

@zjwhitehead :+1: I’ved DM’ed.

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Sweet build!! When are you going to start selling plans? :grinning: @OpenSky

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:+1: Thanks @qbplus9 ! If I had plans, I would put them on here for free! :slight_smile: Yeah, so there are no plans, I just went with the flow. If you’re interested in making something like this, I’m more than happy to chip in and help.

Did you fly it yet? Do you have any way to see voltage or amp draw? How did you mount it to the frame?

No, unfortunately not flown yet. I’m currently training, so it will have to wait just a little longer. Added the new circuitry today, as the one supplied was not 14s compatible. No monitoring equipment yet. Mount is simply using bolts…will post more photos covering that soon.

How’s the training going? Any news on flying this battery?